Crostini Toppings: Olive Paste and Smoked Trout with Pernod Topping

Summer is not always the time for cooking. I mostly enjoy an insalata Caprese (slices of tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and a balsamico/olive oil dressing, a perfect combination) or a Greek Salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, feta and olives with oregano or rigani if I can get it), and, mostly, what really goes well with a salad of this kind is fetunta (roasted slices of bread rubbed with garlic and douses with a generous shot of olive oil. And fetunta is just a small step away from crostini.

Last summer I provided a recipe for my sundried tomato topping (fam-food.blogspot.com/2011/07/sun-dried-tomato-paste.html). Here are two more:

What you need: Olive Paste

• 300 g olives (for instance 200 g black Calamata, 100 g green)
• 3-5 cloves of garlic
• 1 chilli, chopped (minus the seeds if you want it less spicy)
• a bit of olive oil

What you do

1. De-pip the olives, chop the garlic and the chilli.
2. Chop the mixture up in the blender, adding a bit of olive oil for smoothness.
3. If you add some anchovies before you put the mixture in the blender, you have a Provencal tapenade.
4. This costs considerably less than all commercially available olive pastes and you can do it exactly to the taste.

This paste is a jam jar with a lid can be kept in the fridge for some time.

What you need: Smoked Trout topping

• 2 smoked trout fillets
• 1 dl crème fraîche
• 4 tbsps Pernod (or pastis)
• 1 tsp (or less) dried chilli
• 1 tbsp soya sauce (mild)
• Cajun spice (see earlier postings)
• 1 sprig of tarragon chopped
• 1 clove of garlic, pressed
• ½ pepper, peeled and diced for decoration

What you do

1. Mash the trout fillets, mix with the crème fraîche, the pernod (you may not put all of it in just yet) and the soya sauce.
2. Season with chillies and Cajun spice.
3. Add the chopped tarragon and the garlic.
4. Blend until the mixture is quite smooth. If it is too spicy, add a bit more cream.
5. Season to taste and perfume with more Pernod if needed.
6. For colour sprinkle peppers over the top.

This topping, which has a lovely blend of aniseed and smoked fish, should be eaten relatively quickly.

Final remark

Both toppings taste great on roasted slices of bread with a bit of garlic rubbed on before the pastes are spread generously.

Aubergine and Tomato Bake

I had a dish in a Ticinesi Grotto the other day, layered aubergines and tomatoes, an ideal summer lunch, light and lukewarm. They did it in a pizza oven, which I don’t have, but this is how I tried to recreate it at home. The pictures show the aubergines done in a frying pan; the other day I tried it again and did it under the grill. Both methods work but I marginally prefer the second one. 

 

 

What you need

• 2 – 3 largish aubergines (for a main dish for three to four people; mine was made as a side dish, hence the smaller amounts in the pictures)
• 5-6 tomatoes
• olive oil
• 4 cloves of garlic, pressed
• salt, pepper
• Berbere (Ethiopian spice mix, optional)
• Herbs (lovage, basil, Thai basil, oregano, thyme, sage) chopped
• shavings of parmesan or pecorino romano

What you do

1. Slice the aubergine lengthwise, season with salt and pepper (and Berbere); leave to sit for about 5 to ten minutes as some of the juice of the aubergines will drain off this way.
2. Drizzle generously with olive oil and in a single layer roast in a baking tin or fry in a frying pan until they take on a lightly brownish colour.
3. In the meantime dip the tomatoes into boiling water until the skin splits, then skin and slice (or dice).
4. Coat an ovenproof dish with olive oil, layer it with aubergine slices, then add a layer of tomatoes, with a portion of the garlic and herbs.
5. Add further layers and make sure you end up with aubergines on the top.
6. Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes or until the aubergines are quite soft.
7. Cover with the shavings of the parmesan.

This dish can be done in advance and tastes nice hot, lukewarm or cold with some freshly baked baguette.

Noccino (Ticino Walnut Liqueur)

Everybody who makes Noccino in Ticino, the Italian-speaking Swiss canton, swears by their recipe being the best and the only one. I am pretty sure this is not the only one, but it is undoubtedly the very best --  and I’m not even Ticinesi.

What you need now

• 1l grappa (at least 40% alc.)
• 24 green walnuts quartered (with the juice)
• 2-3 cloves
• 1/2 vanilla stick
• 1 tsp lemon zest (only use organic fruit!)
• 1 tsp orange zest (optional)
• 1 handfull of fresh raspberries

What you need in August

250 g sugar

100-300 ml water

 

What you do now

1. Put all ingredients into a sealed jar and shake well.
2. Leave the jar in a sunny place for a biblical 40 days or 2 months.
3. Shake daily.

What you do in August

1. Strain the mixture and do not taste it. It is horribly medicinal at this stage.
2. Boil the sugar and water up into a syrup and add to the murkily green liquid.
3. Store in a cool place for at least 6 weeks, better till Christmas, as with age this metamorphoses from a vilely cough-syrupy concoction into sheer smoothness.

Warning: Drink with caution and in moderation; it slips down sooo easily, but it is pretty lethal.

Strawberry Gratin

We are lucky enough to have strawberry plants in the garden and they are doing rather well. Although they taste lovely fresh off the bush with a dusting of powder sugar, a fine sprinkling of Grand Manier and a breath of cayenne pepper, this is rather nice too.

What you need

• 400 g strawberries, halved
• 1 egg, beaten
• vanilla sugar to taste
• 100 ml cream, whipped
• 1 dash of port
• 1 dash of sloe gin or Cointreau (optional)
• powdered sugar to taste
• a sprig of lemon balm, finely chopped
• a sprig of fresh mint, finely chopped

What you do

1. Lay the strawberry halves, cut side down in one layer into an flat oven-proof dish. Dust with powder sugar and sprinkle with chopped lemon balm.
2. Beat the egg with the vanilla sugar and the port (and liqueur if using). (alternatively you can separate the egg and only do this with the yolk. Whisk the egg white until it is stiff.
3. Whip the cream.
4. Fold in the cream (and the egg white) and pour over the strawberries; sprinkle with fresh mint (alternatively you can both herbs at the end).
5. Put under the (superhot) grill and allow a light-brown crust to form (should be less than 5 min). Serve immediately.

Conchiglie (Pasta) with Stingy Nettle Tips

This works just as well with stingy nettle tips, which, when blanched are very much like fresh spinach. As an alternative you can use fresh spinach. Both are actually very seasonal.

What you need

• 200 g nettle tips or spinach leaves
• 4 tblsp olive oil
• 6 cloves of garlic, sliced
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 small dried red chillies (more if you like it hot)
• 1 handful fresh herbs (lovage, flat-leaved parsley, sage, rosemary, oregano, etc.)
• salt to taste
• 500 g pasta (conchiglie)

What you do

Wash the stingy nettle tips or spinach leaves without shaking them afterwards and place them in a large pan. Stirring occasionally allow them to collapse.

In a frying pan heat the oil and sauté the onions, the garlic slices and the chillies, allowing them to brown slightly and the garlic slices get a little crispy.

Lift out the greens, draining them and keeping the liquid for the pasta water.

Add them to the frying pan and stir.

In the meantime add enough water for the pasta to the juices from wilting the leaves, salt, bring to the boil and add the pasta.

Drain when they are a al dente and add to the frying pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Sauté until the mixture is hot and serve with freshly grated pecorino romano or parmesan.

White Asparagus Grilled (last asparagus recipe, honest!)

This is the last asparagus recipe this year, but I am including it despite the asparagus bias in the last few weeks. Two reasons: one, my sister lives in Northern Germany and apart from her many talents, she is also into food and, being in an asparagus-growing, she is well placed to supply the stuff fresh out of the ground when she comes to Switzerland, which she did last week, the asparagus kept so fresh by being wrapped in a wet linen cloth. The second reason: I had dinner with a journalist in Geneva – no, I am not dropping any names – and she mentioned how she had been served asparagus in Northern Italy. This is a development of her description, really easy, really fast…

So, one last time: asparagus.

What you need

• 1 kg fresh (white) asparagus peeled and with the woody bits trimmed off
• 50 g butter cut into small slivers
• salt and pepper to season
• 1 sprig of fresh tarragon, chopped
• 50-100 ml dry sherry
• freshly grated parmesan

What you do

1. Lay out the asparagus in an oven-proof dish, ideally one layer deep.
2. Spread the slivers of butter evenly over the asparagus and season with salt and pepper.
3. Drizzle with the sherry, sprinkle with tarragon and cover with a dusting of grated parmesan.
4. Put under the hot grill and check after about 10 minutes for the consistency of the asparagus (al dente or soft). If the cheese gets too dark, cover with silver foil.